Overnight Biking Adventure
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After experiencing the thrills of mountain biking in the Kathmandu Valley in the summer of 2008 I returned in November to bike from Nagarkot again. I started in the opposite direction of my first trip, heading south toward Dhulikhel and Panauti. This time the initial descent was anything but smooth. The winding dirt road was steep enough to require constant braking and much of the surface had an ungraded, rocky “washboard” quality that demanded caution. But it was a ton of fun and wouldn’t be overly difficult for anyone with some mountain biking experience. This trip, however I was with another ItrekNepal staffer who had never ridden a mountain bike before. I gave him some quick instruction and after 10 minutes he was handling the terrain with a smile. After that I stopped worrying about him, relaxed, and let my attention drift for a moment when my front wheel suddenly pitched backwards and I found myself face down in the hard dirt. Other than a nasty bump on my shin and a bruised ego I was ok and got going again with a lot more respect for this part of the route. It was the only fall any of us had that entire (on the one-day bike trip during the summer I had done an “endo” right in the middle of a village, awkward enough to garner some laughs from the local folks without getting hurt).
In 20 minutes we were at the bottom of the hill and wound our way through a series of compact valleys dotted with small villages. The local people seemed fascinated by our presence. Dozens of young children clamored around us in the village squares as we pedaled through like metal cowboys. It was clear that few westerners ever visit this part of the Kathmandu valley, though it’s a favorite getaway for well-to-do Nepalese city-dwellers. After a long, steady climb on dirt and paved roads we arrived in Dhulikhel in the early afternoon. We were staying at the Dwarika’s Shangri La, a mountain resort version of the famous Dwarika’s in Kathmandu. The road ends at the bottom of a very long stone staircase leading up to the lobby of the hotel. The climb, even carrying our bikes the entire way, was well worth the effort. As we passed through the hotel lobby and stepped onto the veranda we were greeted with a panoramic view of several majestic Himalayan peaks. While the Shangri La is more expensive than the many other hotels and guesthouses in Dhulikhel it is worth every penny, for the views, the comfort, and the unique presentation of Nepali heritage that only Dwarika’s knows how to re-create.
Our route the next day bypassed the large town of Banepa, taking us along a delightful village road that had just recently been opened, so new in fact that we only discovered it that morning by pouring over local maps with one of the hotel staff who confirmed that a foot trail on the map had just been widened into a small road. After several idyllic miles it connected with the main road from Bhaktapur to Panauti, smooth and with little traffic this far from the city. We reached Panauti before noon. This is a hidden gem of a town, just 32 km from Kathmandu yet worlds away. Located near the Roshi Khola and Pungamati rivers, it appears to have been left exactly the way the founders had built the town, with narrow streets and ancient structures. The cultural centerpiece of Panauti is the Mahadev Temple complex, which dates back to the 15th century, a well-preserved example of classic Newari architecture and craftsmanship.
There is a challenging five day bike route that continues past Panauti up through the mountains that surround the southern part of the Kathmandu valley. We returned the way we came though, back through the hubbub of Banepa, along well-travelled roads. Along the way we stopped in the small hilltop town of Sanga, riding and pushing our bikes up incredibly steep, narrow streets off the main road to a promontory with a commanding view of the entire Kathmandu Valley. Overlooking the town and valley is a 66 meter statue of the Buddha, the tallest in Nepal, and still so new that the construction scaffolding had yet to be removed.
From Sanga we raced down a very smooth, winding mountain road, fast enough to pass several cars and trucks as we made our way back to Bhaktapur. There are three things to say about biking in Nepal other than the magnificent scenery and good-natured people you’ll meet: 1) the roads are generally in very poor condition, hence the need for mountain bikes but also the reason to rejoice when you happen upon smooth pavement; 2) Nepali drivers are very loose in their interpretation of the rules of the road, compulsively passing each other without justification or fear, so you’ll need to pay close attention when biking through large towns; and 3) while Nepalese drive recklessly (by western standards at least) they also drive so slowly that it’s hardly dangerous and you can often outpace them on a bike. But there’s little need to ride fast when everything about you is so glorious - I think you might want to go as slowly as possible too.
No commentsBiking in Nepal
Nepal is justifiably renowned for its great trekking. Many travelers to Nepal are also discovering that biking offers the same rewards as trekking, along with some unique experiences that can’t be found just trekking in the mountains.
While it is called “mountain biking”, the typical biking itinerary in Nepal is more than an off-road experience. Roads in larger towns are mostly paved but in small towns and villages they’re usually gravel and packed dirt, sometimes resembling wide trails more than roads. So a mountain bike is the best way to cover lots of distance and all kinds of terrain in Nepal, but the overall experience is very much like road biking.
I’ve recently completed a couple of two day bike “treks” in the Kathmandu Valley that were as exciting, challenging, and picturesque as any biking I’ve ever done in other parts of the world, and recommend the experience to anyone with basic biking skills and fitness. It’s a wonderful extension to any Nepal trekking itinerary.
ItrekNepal is based in Bhaktapur at the Sanctuary Lodge on a hillside overlooking Bhaktapur and the eastern stretch of the Kathmandu Valley. From the grounds of the Sanctuary Lodge you can see a relatively low mountain ridge that arcs from the north up to a high point at Nagarkot at around 7000 ft elevation (2200 meters) and over to the Dhulikhel and Panauti. For the first trip, which can be completed in one day, we spent the night at a cliffside hotel with stunning views of high Himalayan peaks, including a glimpse of Mt. Everest. We had trucked our bikes (Trek hard tail suspension bikes in good condition) up to Nagarkot for the start of the trek, though cycling up from Bhaktapur would have taken no more than 3 hours at a leisurely pace. I was accompanied by our guide (a competitive mountain bike racer in his spare time) and one of the local ITrekNepal staff. In the morning we took off through the small town of Nagarkot, and then descended a remarkably smooth, paved road. Winding for over a mile through a pristine mountain park, certainly one of the best-maintained parks in all of Nepal, we stopped occasionally to admire the panoramic views over the valley. The road from there on was packed dirt with enough slope and ruts to offer a moderate challenge, including a brief, fairly steep uphill section halfway down the mountain. At lunchtime we arrived at Changu Narayan, the oldest temple in the Kathmandu Valley, dating back to the 4th century! The temple complex includes some of the finest examples of Nepali wood, stone and metal craftsmanship, all well worth spending an hour touring before or after lunch at one of the small cafes near the temple.
From Changu Narayan the road descends quickly to the valley floor. The final few miles along the valley road back to Bhaktapur is smoothly paved, passing through several small villages before arriving at the “backside” of Bhaktapur. We navigated the streets and alleyways of Bhaktapur carefully to get back to the Sanctuary Lodge by mid-afternoon with our only regret that the trip hadn’t been longer.
No commentsPhysical and Mental Preparation for a Nepal Trek
Preparing for a Nepal Trek
One of the most frequent questions I am asked by people who are planning to trek in Nepal is how to prepare for a Himalayan trek, particularly a longer one at high altitudes (above 3000 meters/10,000 feet)..
Assuming that you have the basic physical conditioning equal to the trek that you have chosen to do, preparing for the trek is fairly straightforward. There are three basic components of preparation - aerobic, strength, and mental. Aerobic conditioning is important primarily because you will trekking in thin air, up to 40% less than at sea level.
With good aerobic conditioning you will be able to better metabolize whatever oxygen is available to you, not only bringing energy to your leg muscles, but minimizing the potential effects of Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS). You should plan on doing at least one hour of aerobic conditioning at least 4 times per week for 2 months or more before your arrival in Nepal. This can running, cycling (outdoor or stationary), Nordic track, hill climbing, or any exercise that gets your heart rate into the aerobic range (70% of your maximum heart rate) for sustained periods of time.
Even if you are in good overall physical condition you may not have the right muscles well-conditioned for the kind of trekking terrain you will experience in the Himalayas. Building good leg muscle strength in the gym is helpful but it is also very important that you exercise the exact muscles that you will depend on when you trek. Hiking in hilly areas for at least two hours per day with some weight on your back is the best way to do this. Not only will it make your climbs up steep mountain trails easier and more enjoyable, but even more importantly it will help with the long descents down steep trails.
You might think that the biggest challenge of high mountain trekking is going up but actually it is descending that creates the most problems for trekkers. In the gym be sure to focus on building strength in your quadriceps, the muscles that take on all of the burden going downhill. If you have weak quads you will be likely to step down heavily, possibly leading to ankle, knee and other problems during the trek. Tai Chi is also an excellent exercise for trekkers as it focuses not only on strengthening these muscles but also on technique for stepping lightly and safely. The Tai Chi technique of well-balanced “weightless stepping” is ideal for navigating steep, uneven trail surfaces for many hours per day.
Western trekkers in Nepal will notice how the trails there are generally so much steeper than in their home countries. This is not because the Himalayas are necessarily steeper than anywhere else, but because Nepalese use these trails as their main routes of commerce, just as we use roads. Mountain trails in western countries are designed for recreation and so are usually laid out in long, sweeping switchbacks to reduce the amount of effort required without concern for the time it takes to get from one place to another. Trails in Nepal are much straighter, going almost directly up or down to their destination, from village to village. Rather than have long, gradually ascending trails most Himalayan trails point almost directly up, requiring a lot more effort, and especially when descending, a lot more concentration.
Mental preparation is often overlooked by many people who have otherwise prepared well in all other areas. While trekking may require a lot of physical effort, something to “endure” as the only way to see remote parts of Nepal, it can be a very enjoyable exercise of itself.. Pay close attention to various parts of the body and consciously let them loosen up. When you trek try to relax your body, especially your hips. Focus on the muscles in your hips, right where the legs meet the pelvic bone and try to let you legs swing free as if they were on a hinge. If you’re on a winding downhill trail, think of each step as part of a simple dance and enjoy the natural rhythms that the terrain and your body can find together. Think of the trail as a flowing river and float along on its current, letting the trail take you where it will. Experiment with different ways of walking as a way of finding enjoyment beyond the goal of reaching a destination.
Trekking in the Himalayas is a relatively safe activity and mishaps or problems are usually minor. However, unpleasant things can occur on a long trek. You might have a bout of mild illness, not sleep as well as usual, find the trek pace too fast or slow – any number of things might be annoying or stressful during some part of your trek. Before you leave for Nepal, or for any foreign destination for that matter, think about the journey as more than just a quest to reach a destination. Try to imagine your trip as an opportunity to experience whatever happens as an essential part of the journey. It doesn’t matter so much whether you actually reach Everest Base Camp or any other destination. You should be prepared to find joy and fulfillment in all the moments of your trip, including the less pleasant ones that you hadn’t expected. Preparing to keep a very positive frame of mind throughout your trip, along with good physical conditioning, will insure that you are ready to experience all the wonders of Nepal,
Andrew Leonard
Adventure Conultant
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Fish Tail Lodge
Fish Tale Lodge is located just five minutes away from the Pokhara airport. Fish Tale Lodge blends modern comfort with quick access to lakes, mountain treks, golf, rafting, shopping, fine dining, bars, and bird watching. Fish Tale Lodge is encased in woodlands with bungalow styled rooms that overlook Phewa Lake towards the Annapurna Mountain. The lodge also boasts spectacular views of Fish Tale Mountain.
Fish Tail Lodge’s facilities include conference rooms, swimming pools, and bars. The lodge also provides easy access and booking to the numerous outdoor activities available in the area. Fish Tail Lodge ideal location, comprehensive facilities, and tasteful layout comfortably accommodates adventurers, tourists, newlyweds, and business people. Their on-site restaurant that has garnered acclaim as one of the finest restaurants in Pokhara and the staff’s service has been positively reviewed. Fish Tail Lodge has hosted numerous world leaders, including Jimmy Carter and Henry Kissinger. The Fish Tale Lodge staff takes pride in their commitment to service and comfort. They will ensure your stay, whether for business or pleasure, is comfortable, tranquil, and enjoyable. Fish Tale Lodge has received positive reviews in Lonely Planet and other travel guides.
Fish Tail Lodge donates their profits to the Princess Jayanti Memorial Trust. The Trust provides free cardiac care to underprivileged Nepalese people and to raise public awareness regarding the causes of heart diseases in Nepal.
No commentsHinduism
Hinduism is most common religion in Nepal, and is considered the world’s oldest and third largest religion. This 3,000 year old religion is not unified and does not have a single founder or prophet. Hindus believe there are many deities. Hinduism is the conglomeration of a variety of different religious groups, which come out of India. Many believe Hindus worship many gods, however many Hindus would claim to believe in one eternal god (Brahman), which is indefinable and celebrate other deities. They recognize the other gods as different aspects of the Brahman.
Karma is central to Hindu faith. America’s concept of Karma is basically reaping what you sow. According to Hinduism the soul goes through a cycle of lives and the next incarnation depends on the previous life. Our actions in the previous life keeps us in this world, this bondage is known as “Karma”. While good actions can cause us to be reborn to experience good results, bad actions can cause us to be reborn again and again to undergo suffering and pain.
Another concept many of us are familiar with is the Caste System which is based on The four castes are - the Brahmins (educational system), the Kshatriyas (military), the Vaishyas (economics), and the Shudras. (workforce) are described in Hindu texts, but have been exploited by some Hindu societies to oppress lower castes.
These two websites provide a good overview of Hinduism
1. Thamel.com : Provides an excellent overview of Hinduism in Nepal. Check it our here
2.The Himalyan Academy: This site is filled with details about the practices and beliefs of Hinduism. Check it out here
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